Autos
[Air Bags] [Air Conditioning] [Alternative Fuels] [Automatic
Transmission] [Auto Selling Tips] [Battery Care]
[Brakes 101] [Car Seats] [Catalytic Converter] [Cell Phones] [Checking Engine
Oil] [Consumer
Bill of Rights]
[Cycling] [Driving Navigation Tip] [Engine Additives] [Engine Belts
& Hoses] [Fuel Additives] [Fuel Injection
[Fuel Savings] [Opening the Hood] [Insurance] [Lemon Law] [Maintenance] [Paint finish tips] [Power Steering 101]
[Pre-Trip Rx] [Radiator 101] [Road Rage] [Road Ready] [Road Safety] [Road Divider lines] [Seat Belts] [Stolen Vehicle]
[Tires] [Tire changing
101] [Tire
Pressure] [Traffic Law 101] [Used Car purchasing] [Vehicle Maintenance Basics]
[Wheel
Alignment] [Winter Driving]
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Never! mix or store Gasoline/Oil mixtures indoors or in enclosed poorly ventilated areas,
where fuel fumes may reach an open flame, spark or pilot light such as on a furnace,
water heater, clothes dryer or other appliance. |
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Number
1. Your hood is held down with a primary and secondary latching system. |
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Did you know that running the wrong size tires on your
vehicle cost you gas milage? Your vehicle is geared for a specific tire size. |
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According to recent studies, 5
percent of all motor vehicle fatalities are clearly caused by automobile
maintenance neglect. (tires, brakes, and steering) |
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Also, have your the service technician evaluate the engines performance, Heater and Air Conditioning and defroster, windshield wipers in good working order, and is your electrical system (horn/lights and directional’s) in good working order? Do you have your safety tote in the trunk for emergencies? |
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Did you know that a loose or missing gas cap can effect
your gas milage? The vented gas simply vaporizes. |
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Money Saver
(sometimes) AIR BAGS & AUTOMATIC
SEAT BELTS ANTI-THEFT/ALARM ANTI-LOCK BRAKES (ABS) DRIVING SCHOOL SAFE DRIVER MULTI-CAR FAMILY
Raising
deductible is the amount you pay when you make a claim before your insurance
company pays. The disadvantage of raising your deductible is that when you do
make a claim, you will pay more on your end. The advantage is that your
annual insurance costs go down. You can raise your deductible on the
comprehensive and collision sections of your insurance policy. Proof of Insurance: Auto Rental: When you have an Accident: "Notify
your insurance company of the accident as soon as possible". - Move your vehicle to a safe place, then stop and identify yourself to the other driver. (Some state or local laws may require the vehicle be left as is.) If it can’t be moved, turn on the hazard lights. Seek medical help if you or other parties require it, and notify the police. Tell them who you are, where you are, and about any obvious or claimed injuries. -You are required by Law in every State, that you must immediately contact the police, if there are injuries. -Do not assume that you have no injuries from an accident. Sometimes it takes a few months to surface. -Do not settle immediately with the other parties’ insurance company. Considering that you may initially have unknown injuries. -Exchange information with the other driver(s) including driver’s license numbers. Get the driver’s name, address, telephone numbers and name of insurance company. Also, list any passengers and witnesses. -Get
names and badge numbers of any police officers who arrive at the scene. If
there are injuries or extensive damage, the police should file a report. Ask
to get a copy. -Avoid
any extensive discussions at the scene about who is responsible for damage.
If the other person admits responsibility, offers a money settlement and you
accept, any future claim against the driver may be compromised. You or the
other party may later find damage and bodily injury not apparent at first. -
Write a complete description of the accident as soon as possible. Include
weather conditions, estimated speeds, and as much precise information as you can
observe. Take photographs if a camera is available. Lock
your car: What
is the meaning?
CAR RENTAL INSURANCE TIPS: Do's
& Don'ts Check with your credit card
company, personal and auto insurance carrier, and the rental car company
itself. You do not have to buy the rental company's insurance. You might
already have it covered. Take the time to check your own existing policy
first. Note that there could be certain restrictions to your own policy and
that certain rental vehicles might not be covered.
-CDW:
Collision Damage Waiver usually covers loss and/or damage to the rental car.
CDW releases you from financial responsibility under rental contract if you
crash the car. This agreement can be voided if you are caught using the car
in an unsafe manner. Automobile
Insurance Providers:
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BROKEN ENGINE BELT TIP:
Use a pair of panty hose for a "temporary" fix, or duct tape upside
down, utilizing multiple layers, obviously, you don't want the sticky part
touching the pulley. (what did we every do, before duct tape) |
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Little Cool Air
Make sure to
have the system checked regularly according to your vehicle's owner's manual.
If you happen to live in a cold climate, it might not make much sense to run
the A/C during the winter months, but you should run your A/C system
regularly, because it contains a special mineral oil in the refrigerant
to keep the compressor properly lubricated. Turn it on one a month for about
5-10 minutes. Some heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems also
engage the A/C compressor for defrost mode. |
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Replacing a clogged air filter can improve gas mileage by
as much as 5 percent. |
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IT IS THE LAW Is your Proof
of Insurance in your car? |
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When your automobile tires are not inflated properly, it’s
like driving with the emergency brake on. Decreasing your gas milage. |
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-Signal turns lane changes and stops using hand signals. |
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Periodically check the lights to make sure they're all
working. Turn on your emergency flasher and see if all four lights flash.
Then individually try the right and left turn signal to make sure they are
working front and rear. Ask a friend to apply the brakes to see if the brake
lights are functioning. Obviously, it's extremely dangerous to drive a car
with faulty brake lights. If any of the
lights aren't working, replace that bulb. If the brake lights aren't working
first check the bulbs, then the brake switch. If your dash lights are not
functioning, check for burned out fuses, or for defective bulbs in older
vehicles. For passenger safety, make sure that the courtesy lamps illuminate.
Don't forget any under the hood bulbs as well as the trunk lamp. -Timing Belt The timing belt is a
notched rubber belt that allows the crankshaft to turn the camshaft.
The camshaft opens and closes the valves in synchronicity with the movement
of the pistons. If your timing belt breaks,
your engine will stop working, stranding you wherever you may be. Worse
yet, it can cause major engine damage. Generally, timing belts
should be replaced every sixty thousand miles. -Serpentine Belt* Serpentine belts, also
known as drive belts, provide power to the air conditioning compressor, power
steering pump, cooling fan, air injection pump, and more. If your serpentine belt breaks, all of the engine parts it
is powering will stop working. Your engine could overheat and be damaged. -Radiator and heater hoses are also made of rubber. Their
condition should be checked periodically. Both the upper and lower radiator
hoses can rupture from internal pressure and age without the driver knowing
it. When that happens, the coolant flows out, and the engine can freeze from
excessive heat buildup. In general, inspect all hoses for wear, including hairline
cracks and soft, bulging spots. Hoses that come in contact with brackets or
other metal parts are prone to wear in these areas. Even if the hoses pass
visual inspection, Changing all the water hoses every 50,000 miles is the way
to go, for preventative maintenance.. |
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If at any time your cars temperature climbs beyond the normal range,
the engine is running in the danger zone. Conversely, if the car will not
warm up sufficiently, the thermostat is not functioning properly, the
culprit; most likely the thermostat is not closing. The radiator is one of the
most important operating parts of your vehicle. It’s task is keeping your
automobile's engine at a safe operating temperature, a bad radiator could
mean serious trouble for you if you do not seek professional mechanical
attention immediately. Unfortunately, radiator
problems can often develop without the owner even knowing it, small particles
of dirt and rust clogging up the essential elements, preventing your car
radiator from being able to cool your engine properly. If this happens, your
vehicle will over heat, potentially leaving you stranded. The best way to
avoid such problems, which will inevitably happen with all automotive
radiators as they age, is with regular routine maintenance and service. Being
vigilant will help you catch minor car radiator problems before they become
major ones. Your vehicle engine runs on
heat. Chemical energy in the fuel is transformed into thermal energy when the
fuel burns, which produces mechanical energy to push the pistons, spin the
crankshaft and drive the vehicle down the road. As efficient as today's
engines are, they still waste a lot of the heat energy they produce. The
average gasoline engine is only about 25 percent (depending on your vehicle)
efficient. That means over two-thirds of the heat produced by each gallon of
fuel either goes out the tailpipe or is soaked up by the engine itself.
Diesels provide for a little more bang for the buck, as they provide
about 35 percent, but even that leaves a lot of waste heat that must be
managed and carried away by the cooling system. Interestingly, the
hotter an engine runs the more efficient it becomes. But there's a limit
because aluminum pistons and heads (that is what your engine is mostly
composed of) can only get so hot before they start to soften and melt. The
same goes for cast iron. Most engines today are
designed to operate within a "normal" temperature range of about
195 to 220 degrees F. A relatively constant operating temperature is
absolutely essential for proper emissions control, good fuel economy and
performance. A 50/50 mixture of water
and ethylene glycol antifreeze in the cooling system will boil at 225 degrees
if the cap is open. But as long as the system is sealed and holds pressure, a
radiator cap rated at 15 psi will increase the boiling temperature of a 50/50
coolant blend up to 265 degrees. If the concentration of antifreeze to water
is raised to 70/30 (the maximum), the boiling temperature under 15 psi (look
on top of your radiator cap) of pressure goes up to 276 degrees. Signs and consequences if
the engine overheats the first thing that will happen is a gasoline engine
will start to detonate. The engine will ping and start to lose power under
load as the combination of heat and pressure exceed the octane rating of the
fuel. If the detonation problem persists, the hammer-like blows may damage
the rings, pistons or rod bearings. Overheating can also cause
pre-ignition. Hot spots develop inside the combustion chamber that become a
source of ignition for the fuel. The erratic combustion can cause detonation
as well as engine run-on in older vehicles with carburetors. Hot spots can
also be very damaging and burn holes right through the top of pistons. Another consequence of
overheating may be a blown head gasket. Heat makes aluminum swell almost
three times faster than cast iron. The resulting stress can
distort the head and make it swell in areas that are hottest, like those
between exhaust valves in adjoining cylinders, and areas that have restricted
coolant flow like the narrow area that separates the cylinders. The typical
aluminum head swells most in the middle, which can crush the head gasket if
the head gets hot enough. This will cause a loss of torque in the gasket
allowing coolant and combustion leaks to occur when the head cools. Overheating can be caused
by anything that decreases the cooling system's ability to absorb, transport
and dissipate heat, such as a low coolant level, loss of coolant (through
internal or external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because
of accumulated deposits in the water jackets, a defective thermostat that
doesn't open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping fan clutch, an
inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded
or loose water pump impeller or even a defective radiator cap. Heat always flows from an
area of higher temperature to an area of lesser temperature, never the other
way around. The only way to cool hot metal, therefore, is to keep it in
constant contact with a cooler liquid. And the only way to do that is to keep
the coolant in constant circulation. As soon as the circulation stops, either
because of a problem with the water pump, thermostat or loss of coolant,
temperatures begin to rise and the engine starts to overheat. The coolant also has to get
rid of the heat it soaks up while passing through the block and head(s). So
the radiator must be capable of doing its job, which requires the help of an
efficient cooling fan at slow speeds. Finally, the thermostat
must be doing its job to keep the engine's average temperature within the
normal range. If the thermostat fails to open, it will effectively block the
flow of coolant and the engine will overheat.
Coolant
should be changed at least every two years or 30,000 miles or it will lose
its effectiveness, and the mixture of antifreeze and water should always be
50/50. |
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Answer: Generally, no. Unless your policy states otherwise, no one can tell you to obtain more than one estimate. You, as the car owner, may do so, should this be your desire.
Answer: Generally, no. No one can force you to go to a certain repair shop unless your policy states otherwise.
Answer: Take your vehicle to a reputable repair shop. Leave it with the manager. Instruct the manager to contact your insurance company and advise them as to the damage. You should then call your insurance company and advise them of the vehicle's location.
Answer: Try to collect from the other party because you will not have to pay a deductible. Also, if you use the other person's policy, you may be entitled to a rental car while yours is being repaired, and no accident should be charged against your policy.
Answer: You are. You may direct your insurance company to pay the repair shop, but the payment must be in the hands of the repair agency when you pick up your vehicle. Keep in mind, you are the customer and the insured. The repair shop owner looks to you for payment and you look to the insurance company for payment.
Answer: Generally, the repair shop is responsible.
Answer: You are the owner of the automobile. Only you have the legal right to make arrangements for the repair of your automobile, not the insurance company.
Answer: Generally, no. Unless your policy provides otherwise, it is not mandatory to take your vehicle to a drive-in claims service. Usually it will suffice for you to call your insurance company and tell them where the vehicle can be examined by a claims person.
Answer: Generally, no. However, if you decide to take your car to the preferred shop, ask your insurance company to implement its "elects to repair" clause (check your insurance policy). This may cause the insurance company to be responsible for, among other things, the quality of repairs.
Answer: Perhaps, yes, but the commissioner's authority is limited! The commissioner's office in your state can describe the scope of authority for you.
Answer: Generally, no. You should be presented an estimate to know what is being repaired on your vehicle before repairs are made, unless your policy states otherwise. A Final
Word... Most state laws make it
unlawful for any person to operate any motor vehicle that is unsafe or has
defective equipment. Insist on having your vehicle restored to its
pre-accident condition. Do not be pressured into having repair work done by a
specific shop simply because of lower price. The owners of some repair shops have pledged their shops to a rigid code of ethics. This code is designed to protect you and your property. Seek out these shops. |
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Preparing your car
for sale.
A clean, shiny car gives the impression that you care about the car and have maintained it in good condition. On the other hand, a dirty car does exactly the opposite, and may devalue your car in the eyes of a potential buyer. If the car is nearly new, you may want to take it to a professional detailed and have them clean the interior, exterior and engine. You should fix any broken items that are easy to replace,
such as lenses and headlights, You don't want to give a buyer a reason to not
buy your car. The better the car looks the more broad of an appeal the car
has, even if you don't get more money for it, you will probably sell it
quicker.
Sell your car "as
is." You are not a dealer and you are not required to provide any type
of warranty on the car. But be careful that you don't intentionally
misrepresent the vehicle's condition, or the buyer "may have some legal
recourse". Include a statement in your
bill of sale that the car is sold "as is," and keep a copy of the
bill of sale for your records. The bill of sale will establish the date of
sale and help protect you from any further liability. Always ask for payment in the form of a cashier's check or money order to avoid any problems that can result from a personal check. Cash is ok, but provides no actual proof of exchange of monies. If you do, make out a receipt and both of you sign and date it. The convenience of trading
in your car is obvious, you encounter no advertising cost, no test drives to
arrange, and no potential legal actions, if your recently sold car breaks
down. Once a car is in the dealer's hands, it's the dealer's responsibility
to prepare it and handle the resale. Trading in your old car is the easiest
way to go. In fact, because even dealers of used cars generally want your
trade-in, they make the procedure as easy as possible. Trading in a car is
usually a same day transaction with minimal stress. The dealer assesses the
condition of your car, its age, and other factors and determines its worth
(trade in value) Trade-in value is generally lower than the amount you could sell the car for yourself, but by trading in you save time, effort and potential after sale headaches. When you trade in your car to a dealer, you walk away, your task done! Selling a car on your own is the best way to obtain high dollar, and it may be your only option if you are buying your next vehicle through a private-party sale. But be aware of the work involved. Preparing your vehicle for sale will take time, and depending on its condition may also cost you some money. Be sure to fix things well enough to avoid running into possible legal problems later on from your buyer, rare but always a possibility.. Take the time to
examine both the trade-in and suggested retail values listed in the (Kelley Blue Book) for your
car, you can determine an asking price somewhere between them. Also check
your local newspaper's classifieds, car trader magazines and on-line sales
containing used-car ads in order to determine local market pricing. Look for
listings of vehicles similar to yours and compare their asking prices. Using
multiple sources helps assure that you arrive at a fair and realistic asking
price. The next step is to
advertise and field phone calls. Since most private party vehicles are sold
through local classifieds or used car publications, start by placing ads in
those but be prepared to advertise in multiple sources. Remember to calculate
the costs involved. Consider that, sometimes a takes a week or months to sell
your car. Other times, the first day. To save a lot of trouble, set a realistic price, pre-set
the lowest amount you will settle for. It is best to sell the car in the
evenings or on week-ends. Set up your advertising in that manner. When you finally sell your car, you must sign the title over to them, and notify your insurance company of your actions, as well as a state required pertaining to the sale of an auto. |
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Maintenance:
Keep the cable
connections clean and tight. If the battery has caps (many newer battery’s
have sealed tops, so you do not have to add water) that let you check the
water level, keep it an inch down from the top of the cell. Your battery
should be tightly clamped down, so it can't move. Keep in mind that
colder temperatures increase thickness of the engine oil, making the engine
harder to turn over. The battery is not dead, it is simply having to work
harder. Note: If you place the jumper
cables on the wrong terminals, your battery or the battery from the vehicle
providing the jump-start, could very possibly explode. VERY DANGEROUS!!! Jump-starting: If the battery is sound but too weak to start your
car, the alternator will probably be able to recharge it as you drive. The
first thing is to attempt jump-starting, this will often do the job. Before
you get out the cables for jump starting, check your vehicle's owner's
manual. Various manufactures advise against jump-starting to protect the
car's electronics from a power surge. In addition, some batteries
have a "state of charge" indicator. A fully charged battery has a
colored indicator, usually green (sometimes red). Black or clear means the
battery is completely discharged and you should not try to recharge or
jump-start it. Also, never try a jump-start if the battery's frozen. If your battery
is deformed (bulging), it must be replaced. Make sure to follow the
procedure below, EXACTLY! -Locate
the battery. It
has two terminals, each marked with a symbol: - for the negative and + for
the positive. In some cars, the battery is difficult to reach, so there is
often a more accessible remote positive terminal in the engine compartment. -The
good battery must be similar to the one in the car that won't start. The battery you use to jump start
your car, must have a 12-volt system, years ago, many older cars may had
six-volt systems. Move the car with the good battery close enough for the
cables (many cables are 12' long) to reach the car needing a start. -Turn
off the ignition
and all
accessories on both cars; set parking brakes; put transmissions in park
(automatic) or neutral (manual). -Connect the cables in this sequence! 1. Connect one cable to
the positive terminal of the weak or dead battery. A.
-Start the engine of the car with the "good battery" and let it idle. It is best to
allow it to charge the dead battery at least two minutes before attempting to
start the car with the low or dead battery. B.
-Start the car with the bad battery. -After you jumped start the car and it is running, disconnect the negative cable from its ground connection, then from the terminal on the good battery. Next, disconnect the positive cable from both batteries. If the charging system warning lamp stays lit and the engine dies, your alternator or battery are in need of replacement. If the light on the dash panel goes out, there's a pretty good chance the battery will recharge as you drive. Replacing your Battery: When shopping, remember
that a battery is rated by cold cranking amps (CCA), indicating its power and
the reserve capacity rating (RC), which indicates how long your car's
accessories can run and still have enough power to start the engine. Since starting a car in
cold weather can take up to twice as much current to turn over a cold engine,
cars in colder climates would benefit from a higher CCA rating. Check your
owner's manual for the original equipment manufacturers (OEM) minimum
requirements needed for your car and select the battery adequate for you
needs. Buying one with an excessive CCA rating may be a waste of money. The more RC (reserve )the new battery has, the better, like a little extra shot of juice. The size and number of plates in a battery determine how many amps it can deliver. By having more and/or large plates, you can increase the normal life of the battery. This is what distinguishes a three-year from a five-year warranty battery. If your battery is
the type that needs to be topped off, check it regularly, especially in hot
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Automotive batteries need little attention.
If your battery has removable vents, check the water level and add good
drinking-quality water (distilled water is preferred) as necessary to
maintain the level just below, but not touching the bottom of the vent (just
below filling caps) wells. This will help extend the life of the battery.
The green light (look down into a 1/4'" hole) on top of your battery
indicates a healthy charged battery. |
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Oil Stain Tip:
When you want to get rid of oil stains and drops on your concrete garage or
concrete driveway. Wipe up as best you can, and sprinkle Portland cement on it.
Do not sweep off. After about two weeks, the stain(s) will fade or deminish. |
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Do not park your car over tall grass or piles of dry
leaves. Your catalytic converter gets very hot,( which is normal), and it is
hot enough to start a fire in the dry grass and leaves. The catalytic converter
beneath your car is part of the automobile exhaust system. It converts
harmful compounds in exhaust into harmless compounds. In a typical passenger
car, the catalytic converter, which is similar in shape to your muffler, is
between the engine and the muffler. The unit relies on receiving the proper
mix of exhaust gases at the proper temperature. Any additives or malfunctions
that cause the mixture or the temperature of the exhaust gases to change reduce
the effectiveness and life of the catalytic converter. Catalytic converters have
been standard on U.S. automobiles since the mid-1970s. The catalytic
converter helped push toward the exclusive use of "unleaded
gasoline". Leaded gasoline contaminates the catalyst used inside a
catalytic converter, destroying its usefulness and leading to a clogged
converter. After the engine exhaust
gases pass through the catalytic converter, the gases go through the muffler.
Some vehicles use a pre-converter as well, to perform a similar function. The
catalytic converter generally lasts the life of the vehicle, actually it is
rare to experience a problem with it being clogged or plugged or poisoned,
during its lifetime. The inside of the catalytic
converter resembles a bee hive with tunnels and passage ways coated with
catalysts. There are many passages for the exhaust gases to flow, allowing
for a maximum amount of surface area for the hot gases to pass. Catalytic converters become
useless in the presence of lead due to catalyst poisoning. Catalytic
converters must only be run on unleaded gasoline. Catalyst
poisoning occurs when a chemical in the engine exhaust coats the surface of
the catalyst, preventing further exhaust access to the catalytic materials.
Poisoning can sometimes be reversed by running the engine under a very heavy
load for an extended period of time to raise exhaust gas temperature Common
catalyst poisons are lead, sulfur, zinc, manganese, silicon and phosphorus. Removal of sulfur from a
catalyst surface by running heated exhaust gases over the catalyst surface is
often successful; however, removal of lead deposits in this manner is usually
not possible because of lead's high boiling point. In particularly bad cases
of catalyst poisoning by lead, the catalytic converter can actually become
completely plugged with lead residue. Of late, the theft of converters has skyrocketed, due to the precious (Platinum, Palladium and Rhodium) metals used in the production of the converters. Unfortunately the units are easily removed, especially on SUV's, which are easy to crawl underneath for quick removal of the unit. As to being able to tell of your catalytic converter is functioning properly, the only way to find out if a catalytic converter is malfunctioning (plugged) is to remove it and check the change in engine performance, this of course being done by a mechanic. Although, sometimes you can tell that a converter is clogged because your car will not go any faster when you push the gas pedal. Also, there usually is a noticeable drop in gas mileage associated with a clogged catalytic converter |
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Gasoline pumps are commonly labeled regular, mid-grade, or
premium. The difference in the fuel is the octane number. Regular is usually 87,
mid-grade 89, and premium 92-93. The higher the octane number the more the
fuel resists combusting under compression. If the octane rating is too low
for your engine, the engine may “ping” due to the fuel igniting prematurely.
It is wise to use the recommended octane number that is listed in your
owner’s manual. Use higher octane fuel only if your engine “pings” or
“knocks”. If your engine runs fine on the recommended octane number, stay
with that grade of fuel and not waste money on a premium fuel. Use
Lower-octane gasoline:
Buy the lowest grade or octane of gasoline that is appropriate for your car.
Unless your car requires premium gasoline, filling up your car with
high-octane fuel is a waste of money. That pricey premium fuel won't boost
your car's fuel economy or performance in the least, so skip it. If you're not
sure what grade of fuel works best for your car, open up your owner's manual
and take a look. As long as your engine doesn't knock or ping when you fuel
up with regular unleaded, you're good to drive on this much cheaper gas.
Passing on pricey premium gasoline could save you hundreds of dollars a year. Don't
top off: when filling your car's gas tank.
Any additional gas is just going to slop around or seep out. Stop pumping at
the first indication that your tank is full when the automatic nozzle clicks
off. Also, gas will evaporate from your car's gas tank if it has an escape.
Be sure to tighten up that gas cap each time you fuel up your car. |
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Tire Wear and Directional
Control Camber, toe and toe-out on
turns are tire-wear angles. If out of alignment, the tires will wear unevenly
and faster than normal. Because camber is related to steering axis
inclination, inclination can be considered a tire wearing angle. All
alignment angles are directional control angles, which means they affect
steering and vehicle control, such as the car traveling to the left or right,
you having to always compensate for its pull. Caster is the tilt of the steering axis of
each front wheel as viewed from the side of the vehicle. Caster is measured
in degrees of an angle. If the steering axis tilts backward-that is, the upper
ball joint or strut mounting point is behind the lower ball joint-the caster
angle is positive. If the steering axis tilts forward, the caster angle is
negative. Caster is not measured for rear wheels. Caster affects
straight-line stability and steering wheel return. High positive caster makes
the front wheels want to go straight ahead. A normal amount of positive
caster provides stability and makes the steering wheel straighten out after
turning. On the other hand, positive caster increases the effort needed to
turn the wheel. Power steering allows the use of more positive caster than
would be acceptable with manual steering. Too little caster can make
steering unstable and cause wheel shimmy. Extremely negative caster and the
related shimmy can contribute to cupped wear of the front tires. If caster is
unequal from side to side, the vehicle will pull toward the side with less
positive caster. Camber is the tilt of the wheel from true
vertical as viewed from the front of the vehicle. Like caster, camber is
measured in degrees of an angle. If the tire appears to tilt outward at the
top, the camber angle is positive. If the top of the tire tilts inward, the
camber angle is negative. You will not have uneven wear on your tires. Zero camber-a perfectly vertical
wheel and tire-causes the least tire wear. Positive camber causes the outer
tread of the tire to wear more than the inner tread; negative camber has the
opposite effect. Your car is designed with small amounts of positive or
negative camber into vehicle suspensions to aid handling and steering. Normal
camber angles have little visible effect on tire wear, but extreme camber
causes irregular tire wear and shortens tire life. Positive camber, like
positive caster, affects straight-ahead stability and steering wheel return.
As the vehicle turns, the outside suspension tends to rise on the wheel
because of positive camber. When the wheel returns to straight ahead, the
vehicle's weight presses down on the steering axis and helps straighten the
wheel. Negative camber resists the
tendency of the tire to slip sideways during cornering. It also can increase
steering effort. Most cars and light trucks are designed with positive
camber, but many race cars and some high-performance street vehicles have
negative camber. Rear wheels usually have
zero camber, but some independent rear suspensions are designed with some
amount of (usually negative) camber angle. If front camber angles are unequal
side to side, the vehicle pulls toward the side with the greater positive
camber. Unequal rear camber also can affect vehicle handling. Toe is how the wheels are aimed, as
viewed from above. A pair of front or rear wheels aimed inward at the forward
edges has toe-in; wheels aimed outward have toe-out. The toe angle for front
or rear wheels is measured in fractions of an inch, millimeters or fractions
of a degree. Zero toe-wheels aimed
straight ahead causes the least tire wear. Extreme toe-in or toe-out causes
feather-- edged wear across the tire tread. Too much toe-in wears the outside
tread edges, with feathered edges on the inside of each tread row. Too much
toe-- out has the opposite effect. Front wheels are usually toed in on rear drive vehicles and toed out on front drives to compensate for changes in the steering linkage and tires when the vehicle is moving. When the vehicle is moving, toe decreases because the wheels straighten out under acceleration and the steering linkage slightly moves. |
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They are convenient, they are time servers, they are
wonderful in an emergency and they are a DEATHLY
DISTRACTION, while driving. The number of accidents now due to Cell
phone use while driving, is exponential in causing accidents. Hands free are
an improvement, but it still a serious distraction to safe driving. But, at
least your hands are free and you are not providing blind spots. |
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Always
dim your high-beam lights, when approaching other vehicles."Your
inaction", could very well cause an accident, with you! |
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About
every twelve minutes, someone in the U.S. dies from a motor vehicle crash.
Trying to prevent these crashes is one part of motor vehicle safety. Here are
some things you can do to be safer on the road: Most deaths in traffic
accidents are due to the occupants being thrown from the vehicle. BECAUSE
they were not wearing their seat belt. -Avoid distractions |
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Never use your cruise control when
driving in wet weather. If your auto begins to hydroplane, it will speed up
and you will be further out of control. |
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The Single
Broken line, The solid line with no break, The large lines separated
by a large gap or wide solid line(s). |
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NEVER
DRIVE IN THE RAIN WITH YOUR CRUISE CONTROL ON. If the cruise control is on when your car begins to hydro-plane and your tires lose contact with the pavement, your car will accelerate to a higher rate of speed making you take off like an airplane |
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The sound of metal scraping is
a sure sign that you have a brake problem. Brakes have
varying types of problems, almost always coming from the lack of lining to
pads or problems with the calipers. Sometimes you can sense a problem because
your car will pull to the left or right (not always a brake condition,
sometimes front end alignment or tire problems.) when you apply the brakes.
Whenever you have an irregular feel while driving have your brakes inspected.
Your
brakes can become weak due
to overuse. The brake lining becomes hardened and they lose their power to
grab or stop the rotation of the brake drum or rotor. If you experience a
brake fluid lead, your brakes will soaked up the fluid; you can also have a
problem with oil or grease, which causes your brakes to become weak. If
you have worn or glazed brake pads you will get grinding noises from the
brakes. Sometimes it may happen that your emergency brakes are frozen due to
rust. If such things occur the brakes will not release when they are supposed
to. As a result you will feel a drag during acceleration. Have a annual brake
inspection performed by your mechanic. He is going to check the brake pads
from outside the front tire or through the openings of the wheel or rim. If the mechanic
notes a pad depth less than ¼ inch, he
will suggest that you change it immediately. You also need to
change the brake pad if you hear a screeching sound on applying the brakes.
If you see any fluid leakage or uneven pad wear know that you have to change
the disk brake calipers. |
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· Don’t
drink and drive. Don't drive when you're taking medication that will Always wear your seat belt. Obey the speed limits. Slow down when road
and weather conditions are Don't take risks: don't cut people off in
traffic, make sudden lane changes Don't drive when you’re tired, upset or
sick. If you're in doubt, let the other driver go
first — yield the right-of-way. keep a two-second space between your
vehicle and the one ahead. To Cut the distractions: don’t overcrowd the
vehicle or play loud music. Always check your blind spot: look in your
mirror and over your shoulder before you change lanes.
Check traffic in all directions before going into an intersection. The
Legal Speed Limit
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Know these: |
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FUELING TIP: Do not purchase gasoline when the tanker
trucks are filling the stations tanks. |
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DON'T GET DISTRACTED |
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Quick Tip: When polishing
aluminum or chrome wheels on your car, it is unnecessary to buy expensive wheel polish. You may find that ordinary, white toothpaste works just as well.
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Purchase
it at the
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Maintain the proper air pressure in your
automobile tires, it aids in better gas mileage, better ride, tire life and safety.
To prolong tire life, check air pressure monthly. Keep tires inflated to the
recommended (found in your owner’s manual) PSI. Non-detergent
oil:
Most vehicle manufacturers
recommend changing the oil once a year or every 7,500 miles in passenger car
and light truck gasoline engines. For diesel engines and turbocharged
gasoline engines, the usual recommendation is every 3,000 miles or six
months. "Normal" driving
is actually "severe service" driving. This includes frequent short
trips, stop-and-go city traffic driving, driving in dusty conditions, and
driving at sustained highway speeds during hot weather. For this type of
driving, which is actually "severe service: driving, the recommendation
is to change the oil every 3,000 miles or six months. For maximum protection, most oil companies say to change the oil every 3,000 miles or three to six months regardless of what type of driving you do. A new engine with little or
no wear can probably get by on 7,500 mile oil changes. But as an engine
accumulates miles To reduce the costs of vehicle ownership and maintenance,
many car makers suggest the oil filter needs to be replaced at every other
oil change. If you ask a mechanic, he will tell you every time you change the
oil. -Follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service or have an oil analysis performed to see if you can use the normal service interval -If you do the oil changes yourself then buy the oil and filters near the date of the oil change and keep a maintenance log with receipts -Use an API certified 5W30 or 10W30 oil (whatever your manual says is preferred) and watch out for oil change places that force 10W30 on you -Don't use oil additives -Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a high performance engine or if you live in an extremely cold climate, otherwise it provides no benefit (but no harm either). -Avoid engine flushes -Check your oil after every other fill-up. OIL
FACTS 10W30 Vs 5W30: 10W30 is a one size fits all oil. Many older vehicles need 10W30, and most newer vehicles are okay with it in warmer climates. Many fast lube centers do not want to carry every type of oil, so many choose to carry only 10W30, which is ok, as long as it is does not violate your automotive warranty. (check you owners manual) ENGINE AIR
FILTERS: |
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DUCT TAPE TIP: |
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Has Your Car’s Safety Net Been
Compromised? (ARA) – Are you driving around in a vehicle that’s an
accident waiting to happen? If you have chips or cracks in your windshield,
the answer may be “Yes.” |
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Under
Lemon Law legislation, most states allow new vehicle purchasers to choose
either a replacement or a refund if the vehicle can't be repaired after a
reasonable number of attempts. Lemon laws apply only to new vehicles,
ignoring used vehicles are entirely void of any inclusion. If you have a
leased lemon, you'll need to talk to your leasing company, as most state's
lemon laws do not apply to leased vehicles. You may need to contact the
state's Attorney General's Office in addition to your own attorney if the
dealership and manufacturer remain uncooperative. Keep
in mind, even if your car is a lemon, you are responsible for paying back
your loan, no matter what happens to the vehicle. The manufacturer or
dealer/seller is legally responsible for any problems you encounter, not the
lender. After
you purchase your vehicle from your friendly and honest dealer, legally their
obligation is over, and yours begins, when you sign the sales purchase
agreement and drive away. In most states consumer products are covered
by 3-day Right to Rescind (buyer's remorse) laws. Unfortunately, motor
vehicle sales and leasing contracts usually aren't covered. Contact
your state's Attorney General's Office for more information on
buyer's-remorse law in your state. If you find you don't like the car
you bought, you're generally out of luck. If you bought a car from a private
party, you have no recourse other than through your attorney or small-claims
court. Returning a leased vehicle is virtually impossible due to the amount
of depreciation, paperwork, and fees involved. If you believe you've
been misled by a dealer, and have documentation to prove it, contact your
state's Attorney General's Office and Department Of Motor Vehicles
(DMV). If either feels you have a case, you'll need an attorney as
well. Licensed dealers in all states are required to transfer title, registration and tags within a reasonable period of time, this is normally 7 to 45 days depending on your state. If a month has passed since your vehicle's delivery and you haven't received your registration or title in the mail, call the dealer and ask for an explanation. If they cannot provide you with a satisfactory answer, call your state Attorney General, and ask for their intervention. |
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Quick Tip: Your front wheel brakes wear out twice as fast as your rear
brakes. Front brakes should last about 35,000 miles |
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Obey the Laws, Driving is not a
right, it is a Privilege
(Recall Database)
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DID YOU KNOW? "Over 80 percent of everything we consume, wear or
drive, travels by truck. At any given time, there is only approximately 72
hours of food on our grocery shelves" |
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-To remove smudges and other small paint
scratches (from shopping carts, etc., try using Goof off, it is a great
product.
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Quick Tip: Install new
windshield wipers, annually, or more often, if necessary. |
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Your automatic
transmission is a marvel in engineering, dating back to early 1900. The main
difference between a manual and an automatic transmission is that the
manual transmission locks and unlocks different sets of gears to the shaft to
achieve the various gear ratios, while in an automatic transmission, the same
set of gears produces all of the different gear ratios. The transmission uses
gears to make more effective use of the engine's torque, and to keep the
engine operating at an appropriate unbroken speed. |
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below for
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